CANDLEMAKING: History, Methods, Supplies

For a complete line of candlemaking products, click here.

History

Candles have cast light on humanity's every progress. The ancient Egyptians, who used torches made by soaking reed core into boiled tallow, developed the first candles.

The Romans developed candles with wicks using tallow as a major ingredient.
It was during the Middle Ages when beeswax was first introduced into candles and a huge improvement, as the wax burned didn’t leave a smell.

Next came the Bayberry candles, producing a sweet wax but the process was extremely difficult and tedious so Bayberry candles only lasted a short time.

The whaling industry in the late 18th century introduced spermaceti, a wax obtained from the chrystalized whale oil.

In 1834 Joseph Morgan invented a machine that industrialized the manufacturing of candles. In 1850 paraffin wax was introduced. Its affordable cost and clean burning make this the candle of preference. Mixed with Stearic Acid, paraffin candles make up the major kind of candle manufactures to this day.

Candle Wax

Wax Additives

Stearic Acid is animal or vegetable fat refined to flake or powder. Stearic acid produces two reactions when mixed with paraffin: it lowers the boiling point and makes the candles harder when dried to prevent bending or slumping. Stearic acid makes translucent paraffin candled more opaque.

Microchrystallines increase adhesion for overdipping and increasing tackiness for modeling wax. The hard micro increases strength of candle and the soft micro increases the elasticity.

Synthetic Polymers increase luster, pliability and raise the melting point of wax. These are especially helpful in mold releasing and preventing color fading.

Recipes for Poured or Dipped Candles

Guidelines for Using Candle Additives

Make sure your measurements are correct in size and they are blended correctly. Start with the smallest ingredient and work your way up. Ensure any additive is completely blended in and stir for an additional 3 minutes. Alternatively, blend in additives in a small separate container then mix together for at least 3 minutes.

Candle Wicks

The four main types of wicks include:

• Flats wicks, uses mostly for taper or pillar candles, are the most commonly used types of wicks. These wicks are designed to curl for self trimming. Common sizes are 18 ply (small), 24 and 30 ply (medium), and 42 ply (large).
  
  
• Square Braid Wick looks round cornered squares. These wicks are identified from 6/0 (extra small) to 1/0, then beginning with # 1 through # 10, which is the largest. The wick with the /0 after the number are a regular braid and with an # after it are a loose braid, Square wicks are designed for bees wax candles, pillars blocks and novelty candles. The square braided candles are thicker thus stand up straighter so the wick burns in the center of the candle.
  
  
• Cored Wicks are braided wicks with a round cross section containing paper, cotton, zinc or lead so they stand ridged. These wicks are burn hotter and are not suceptable to drowning, thus are recommended for large container candles. Due to health concerns lead cores have lost their appeal.

Adding Colors and Scent

Aniline is the most convient method of coloring wax. Soluble in wax and oils, Aniline is sold in a solid brick, disc or chip. Natural dyes are a real option as far as coloring, so experiment with herbs. Coffee, Onions, Madder Rottonjot are a few examples. Remember, the dye must be soluble in oil!

Adding scents can be achieved through a number of way: synthetic fragrance, essential oils, and natural herbs and spices. The scent must oil soluble. Some scents evaporate in the air over time while some are heat activated. Essential oils all have specific properties that effect volatility so experiment and record the results. You can soak the wick in oil only if this doesn’t make the wick burn excessively. Try a 1/2-teaspoon for every lb of wax at first. 3% of total weight should be a maximum.

Equipment

To melt the wax, use either a double boiler or a contained element heater like a slow cooker.

Other equipment includes: waxed paper, foil paper, craft paper, thermometer (0 to 300 degree clip on), ladle, large metal dipping can, scale, pot holders, bucket, metal wax pouring pitcher, scissors, straght edge, weights to sink molds, dowel or skewer, masking tape, mold sealer, hammer, paint scraper or putty knife, paper towel, Nylon panty hose for polishing candles, pliers.

Safety

For safety reason use a double as water only boils to 212 degrees and will decreases the risk of catching the wax on fire. Have ample covered counter space for pouring and melting wax, as well as a fire extinguisher, baking soda (to smother a fire), and a damp cloth.

For a complete line of candlemaking products, click here.